Backpacking the Vilcabamba Valley to Machu Picchu Alumni Trip: Inaugural Trip Reflection

An Interview with Kellsie Forbes, NOLS Alumni Trips Manager

Where did the idea to create an alumni trip to explore the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu come from?

Jorge Anhalzer, a NOLS instructor from Ecuador, and his friend Sam Husley, a NOLS instructor who lives in Peru, proposed it last year. It’s such a spectacular place. Most of our alumni trips are created by instructors who want to share a special corner of the world with the NOLS community. Additionally, we’ve been expanding our trips in South America, and this is our first offering in Peru.

How did Jorge and Sam’s expertise help put this trip together?

Sam is based in the Sacred Valley in Peru and has intimate knowledge of the area; he has been guiding there for years. We were lucky to have his local knowledge and connections to put this trip together. Another local guide, Gladys, who joined our first trip, is an expert in the area and scouted the trail years earlier. The locals know the trails and area, but tourists don’t. The Vilcabamba Valley has an amazing trail and it was really special to hike along a route that many tourists never see. 

What was the most special thing about the trip?

There are two things that stick out: the diversity of the trip and the exceptional food and camping set up.

There was a mix of cultural experiences like an offering circle to the mountain apus led by the locals, as well as opportunities to interact with Inca culture. Some days were spent traveling by vehicle, but most were spent hiking and learning about the Inca civilization.

The food and camping were amazing. We had incredible chefs. One of our cooks was a chef at a farm to table restaurant in one of the villages. The interactions with the “arrieros” – the people who lead pack animals/mules, cooks, and farmers, and locals we met along the way were special; they all treated us well. One day a man Gladys knew from a scouting trip played the flute for us, another day we stayed at a coffee farm and drank incredible organic coffee grown right there.

How will the second time around look different from the inaugural trip?

We’re going to spend more days exploring the Sacred Valley to learn more about the Inca civilization and history of the land and people before we go hiking. We hope that spending more time in the villages will amplify the cultural experience. There isn’t a big story book of the Inca culture, so we’re piecing it together little by little by traveling to more villages. For example, we’re staying two nights in Ollantaytambo which has buildings made with the original Inca stone work. The masonry is phenomenal.

What is different about doing this trip with NOLS vs if you did it with an outfitter or on your own?

All the outfitters go to Machu Picchu via the Inca Trail or Salkantay Trek. They come from the east, closer to Cusco. They are stunning, no doubt. The NOLS alumni trip starts by driving seven hours west and then hiking towards Machu Picchu from the west. There’s nobody there! We didn’t see anyone else other than some farmers. It was surprising to have the mountains to ourselves, and it was all due to Sam and Gladys’ knowledge of the area. 

Additionally, most tours don’t combine the Sacred Valley visit with the hike to Machu Picchu. Most people do a four-day hike and a separate visit to the Sacred Valley. Our trip includes everything that is special about the area. We work with locals to piece it all together – cultural experience, rigorous hiking, and amazing food.

Who is a good fit for this trip?

It’s for people who like long distance and high altitude hiking, a light pack, and want to be challenged. Even though mules carry the group gear and packs are light, there are long days at high altitude. The terrain is rolling with significant elevation changes over mountain passes and descents to the valley. The trail went from mud in the cloud forest to dirt and rock up higher. You need to be ready for any weather, from sunshine to rain. The cloud forest makes for a unique climate: it is lush and green and wet at 11,000 feet.

What was the piece of gear that made a big difference?

Waterproof camp shoes! The camps are muddy so you need solid, mud-worthy camp shoes. No flip flops!

Anything else?

Cusco is a beautiful place to start and end the trip. The highlights include the wonderful food, coffee culture, and hot springs we visit towards the end of the hike. And of course, Machu Picchu. It’s incredible and there’s nothing like seeing it in person. Pictures don’t give you the full context. You need to be there to see what’s around it.

Join us next year in Peru! We’ll spend 11 days exploring villages and piecing together the story of the Inca civilization before backpacking through the Vilcabamba Valley to Machu Picchu.

All photos by Kellsie Forbes