Elements of Mountaineering

An excerpt from NOLS Wilderness Mountaineering:

Commitment Caution Leadership Expedition Behavior Ethics Some important underlying themes in mountaineering are worth an early mention. These are commitment, caution, leadership, expedition behavior, and ethics.

Commitment

Mountaineering requires a subtle mix of commitment and caution, even more so if you seek summits in remote, wild lands. Without a certain commitment, the many obstacles, both small and large, keep the finest dreams from becoming reality.

Until one is committed, there is hesitancy, a chance to draw back, always ineffectiveness. Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth, the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans: that the moment one definitely commits oneself, then Providence moves too. All sorts of things occur to help one that would never have otherwise occurred. A whole stream of events issue from that decision, raising in one's favor all manner of unforeseen incidents and meetings and material assistance, which no man could have dreamt would have come his way if he was still doing his thing. I have learned a deep respect for one of Goethe's couplets:
"Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it."

--William H. Murray, The Scottish Himalayan Expedition (1951)

Caution

Read climbing magazines and journals for stories of modern climbers on extraordinarily difficult routes, soloing the highest peaks and taking some very big risks. In "The Art of Climbing Down Gracefully" Tom Patey wrote, "Modern climbing is becoming fiercely competitive. Every year marks the fall of another Last Great Problem, or yet another Last Great Problem Climber. Amid this seething anthill, one must not overlook the importance of Staying Alive" (Mountain 16, 1971).

Every activity entails risk. Mountaineering, especially in remote locals, is dangerous and demands caution at all times. Mountaineers must ask, "What could possibly go wrong? What are the risks, and how can they be minimized?"

We can reduce risk only by identifying it through constant awareness and assessment. Mountaineers must know their own abilities and understand the hazards of the mountain environment (see chapter 2). A prudent mountaineer must be aware of the consequences of every action to determine whether the level of risk is acceptable. Caution and safety depend on your knowledge of yourself, of your partners, and of the mountain environment.

Leadership

Leadership is a most highly studied concept. It is NOLS' middle name, and yet we still find it difficult to talk about.

But leadership is simple in practice. It begins with the individual. Leadership is the willingness to state an opinion, the motivation to commit to a project, and the ability to make difficult choices. it is only through each member's self-leadership that mountaineering parties can come to effective group decisions.

You must know and be honest about your own abilities and limitations. You must decide to retreat from a much-desired objective if you find it too difficult or risky. And you will have to motivate yourself. No one but you will light the stove at 4:00 A.M. to cook breakfast, and only you will get yourself out into the wild. Above all, lead yourself: speak, act, do. Leadership is well-timed, appropriate action.

Expedition Behavior

Except for those who enjoy climbing alone, human interactions are a major component of any mountaineering expedition. Expedition behavior can be defined most simply as the effect you have on your companions; the effect can be positive or negative, motivating or distracting. Poor expedition behavior has been cited as a factor in many undesired mountaineering events.

Misfortune of all kinds--from the loss of life, to disappointments such as not reaching their goals or summitting but not enjoying their experience--have been linked to poor expedition behavior. Expeditions have ground to a halt as the unwieldy demands and behaviors of its members take their toll on the ability of the group to function. "Return having gained your summit, but without the good camaraderie of your companions, and what have you gained?" says pioneering Himalayan climber Charles Houston.

At NOLS we recognize many facets to good expedition behavior. Assume a full share of responsibility. Communicate your own condition to partners clearly and honestly. Simply being bearable to live within a cramped tent during a multi-day storm may be the most challenging and yet essential expedition behavior skill for the mountaineer.

Ethics

There was a time when mountaineers were the caretakers of their playgrounds and treated the wilderness with worshipful care. Today, however, the mountaineer is often seen as a potential threat to wild places. Himalayan expeditions leave garbage piles in otherwise pristine spots. Most places lost their wildness yesterday, and users must make every effort to preserve what remains for tomorrow.

For the wilderness mountaineer, minimum impact ethics are tantamount to the preservation of the land and the activity. Kind treatment of the land is inextricably tied to the future of wilderness mountaineering.

Ethics also limit the wilderness mountaineer's use of unfair technology or disrespect to "conquer" every piece of rock, ice and snow. Considerations for the style allow the impossible and the undoable to exist forever as dreams for the future.

Order a copy of NOLS Wilderness Mountaineering by calling (888) 332-3636.

This book, and the information excerpted from it on the World Wide Web, cannot and does not alert you to all the hazards of the mountains. It is a learning tool and should be read and studied as a supplemental source only. It is not a substitute for professional instruction, an experienced mentor, or, most importantly, the wilderness experience itself. If you decide to participate in the activities described in NOLS Wilderness Mountaineering, or the excerpts from this book on the World Wide Web, the risk and responsibility for the outcome are solely yours. No one associated with the publication of this book, including NOLS and Phil Powers, accepts responsibility for any injury or property damage that may result from participation in such activities.

Copyright © 1993 National Outdoor Leadership School.

Published by: STACKPOLE BOOKS, 5067 Ritter Road, Mechanicsburg, PA 17055.

All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole Books, 5067 Ritter Road, Mechanicsburg, PA 17055.