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Panic floods through me and I can feel my throat
tighten into a knot. We have just landed at the
Sheremetyevo International Airport, and I’m
already lost. These Russian military men, the ones
over by the gate with the big machine guns, are
going to sit me down and interrogate me. They’ll
send me back to the U.S.
I desperately look around for someone who can
translate. Our journey to follow in the footsteps
of Russian prisoner Slavomir Rawicz, and his famous
book The Long Walk, is off to a surprisingly appropriate
start. I feel as bewildered and startled as Slavomir
must have felt—but at least I haven’t
been arrested.
Frantic, I try one more time with the stern and
unsmiling woman at customs. She doesn’t even
look at me, just points to the end of the line
with a “nyet.” The panic increases
a notch as I wildly look around for my traveling
companions. I promise myself that if the woman
lets me pass through customs, I’ll study
my Russian so much I’ll be practically fluent
by the time we move on to Mongolia.
My trip began in September 2004, but Rawicz’ harrowing
journey started in 1939. A young Polish lieutenant,
Rawicz was captured by the Red Army in 1939 during
the German-Soviet partition of Poland. The Army
forced him to march across Russia in the depths
of winter, where he was then sentenced to 25 years
of labor in a Siberian Gulag camp.
In 1941, Slavomir and six others escaped—and
made their way on foot 4,000 miles to freedom in
Calcutta. With nothing but an ax, a knife, and
a week’s worth of food, they traveled through
the frozen Siberian tundra, around mysterious Lake
Baikal, down Mongolia’s vast and desolate
Gobi Desert, and into Tibet’s high mountains
before finally reaching India two years later.
The Long Walk recounts that harrowing adventure,
and it is surely one of the most curious treks
in history—and one of the greatest survival
tales ever written—but the story remains
controversial as to whether or not it is true.
Along with a team of fellow NOLS Instructors David
Anderson and Ant Chapin, as well as NOLS grad Keri
Bean, we wanted to re-trace Rawicz’ incredible
escape as closely as possible. We would journey
across Russia to the actual Gulag camp where Slavomir
was imprisoned, and then travel via train, bus,
rickshaw, horse, camel, jeep and, of course, on
foot to India. After months of planning, applying
for grants, fundraising and researching for the
trip, the four of us met in Moscow after I finally
got through customs. It was to be the trip of a
lifetime, an amazing experience in more ways that
I could have imagined.
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